Is the Bernina Express train worth it?
The Bernina Express is a train that runs from Chur, Switzerland to Tirano, Italy offering panoramic views of the Swiss Alps along the almost 4 hour ride. I had the privilege of experiencing this scenic train ride in November 2022 and it was one of the most beautiful experiences I have ever had. There are lots of logistical questions that come up when starting to plan to make this trip (and I know because I had many!!) So I’ve consolidated many of the questions I had and things I wish I would have known in this post.
So…is it worth it?
Absolutely. I spent 3 months in Europe, taking various trains around the continent and the Bernina Express was the most scenic and memorable train ride I’ve done. The panoramic views alone were breathtaking. Being transported from small towns, to lakeside views to snow-capped mountains is an experience like no other. It is something I would absolutely do again! And it was well worth all of the research I did on it beforehand.
Where does the train start and end?
There are two starting points for the train: Chur, Switzerland and Tirano, Italy. Depending on your itinerary, you can choose to get on the train at either stop. I started the train ride from Tirano, Italy because I was already in Italy. I took a train from Milan and stayed overnight in Tirano before the day my train left. Once on the train, the route it will take will vary by the season. Some of the views along the way include the Morteratsch glacier, the three lakes Lej Pitschen, Lej Nair and Lago Bianco, the Alp Grüm and the Brusio Circular Viaduct.
How do I Purchase a Ticket?
Tickets can be bought directly on their website in advance. You must purchase a ticket AND a seat reservation. Train tickets go on sale 60 days prior to departure and can/will sell out. Seat reservations can be made up to 6 months in advance. (Confusing, I know!) You can also purchase a Swiss travel Day pass which covers the train travel as well.
How much does it cost?
I purchased a Saver Day pass for around $52 which granted me access to all Switzerland transportation for a day, which was super helpful when I arrived in Zurich that evening. You can purchase that pass here as well. The reservation fee for the train was around $32 since I went in off season. So my total was around $72 for the trip.
Prices may vary by season and which class you sit in. For most up to date costs visit the site.
The Man in 61 blog does an excellent job at breaking down the purchasing process for the Bernina Express. I fully followed his instructions when purchasing my ticket and it went smoothly for me. Check out his blog here.
Which Side of the Train Should I Sit on?
It is believed that if you are traveling South (Switzerland to Italy) the best views are on the right side of the train and if you are traveling North (Italy to Switzerland) the best views are on the left-hand side of the train. If you purchase a ticket for the opposite of what this says, don’t worry. The windows are panoramic so you really can see everything no matter where you sit and as long as it is daylight outside (this is important!) you can still see the views. When I rode the train, if we passed a view that was on the opposite side of where someone was sitting, many people just got up to take their picture/observe on the other side where there was a free space. This brings me to the next popular question…
The inside of the Bernina Express.
The seats are spacious and comfortable and single seat options are also available if you are traveling solo.
Which season is best to take the train?
Spring is traditionally the most popular season to take the train due to the bright colors and foliage you will see along the route. There are also more times available in the spring and summer. I, however took the train in November, right after daylight savings time. Taking the train in the winter time meant there were more seats available (there were only about 6 people in my train car) so we could freely move around and not have to stay in our assigned seat. At the time I took the train there was only one train running per day. This also meant that the last 45 minutes of the ride was in the dark. I certainly don’t regret it because it was still gorgeous, but if you want the full views for the ENTIRE train ride, spring or summer is your best bet at a time before it gets dark outside.
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Can I just take a regional Commuter train on the same route?
In short, yes.
There are regional commuter trains that follow the same route that the Bernina Express train does.You can take a regional commuter train for much cheaper than you will pay on Bernina.
However, these trains are not direct like the Bernina is and you will have to get on and off at various stops but they do offer the same views as Bernina. Another difference is that the Bernina Express offers narration since it is more intended for tourists.
Also, If you are a photographer you may be annoyed that you cannot open a window on the Bernina Express to get a good picture, whereas on the regional train there is an option for an open air ride (depending on your train and the season, not always guaranteed).The last caveat is that you cannot reserve your seats on a regional train.
So depending on what type of experience you want will factor in if a regional train ride is better for you as opposed to the Bernina.
How many times a day does the Bernina Express run?
This will depend on the season you are traveling. Typically it runs twice in the summer and once in the winter. Regional trains will run multiple times a day. Check times here.
Can you hop on and off Bernina Express?
Yes it is possible, but you will want to check the ticket you buy to ensure it’s not a day pass if you plan to stay overnight. A regional train ride may make more sense if your goal is to hop on and off.
Is Bernina Express worth it in winter?
I rode the train in November and it was absolutely worth it! I was traveling to Europe during that time so my dates were not flexible. But if you are planning in advance, I would suggest going during spring and summer so that you have full daylight during your train ride.
Is there a bathroom on the Bernina Express train?
Yes, there are multiple bathrooms available on the train.
Is there food available?
There is a hostess that comes around the train with the menu options.They include things like cheese, wine, trail mix and other beverages. There isn’t a full menu available but enough offered for a snack. I had swiss cheese and tea while on the train. I also purchased food before boarding that I was able to eat on the train.
How does it differ from the Glacier Express?
I did not take the Glacier Express train while in Europe, but it rivals the Bernina Express when it comes to views. The biggest difference comes down to how much time you have and money you want to spend. They have similar routes but the Glacier Express takes around 8 hours, making it a longer trip. Read through Rick Steves forums here to get opinions on those who have experienced both.
Is luggage allowed?
Yes, there are luggage racks at the front of each train car where you can store luggage. I was traveling with a medium size roller bag and backpack and had enough room to store my things.
Is there Wifi on the Bernina Express?
Yes, there is wifi and power sockets available.
Ready to take the most epic train ride? Book your train travel here.
